You are reading

Father and son duo keep Mexican culinary traditions thriving at two Queens restaurants

Photo courtesy of La cevicheria

June 12, 2024 By BORO Magazine

In the heart of Queens, two mom-and-pop restaurants, de Mole and La cevicheria by de Mole, are not only champions of authentic Mexican cuisine, but also embodiments of familial legacy, particularly poignant as Father’s Day approaches. 

Opened 17 years ago by Ramiro and Mireya Mendez at 45-02 48th Ave. in Sunnyside and later joined by their son Luis with La cevicheria by de Mole in Astoria in September 2020, these establishments are community beacons, sustaining Mexico’s rich culinary traditions.

Ramiro Mendez of de Mole. Photo courtesy of de Mole

De Mole, aptly named after a traditional Mexican sauce, was born out of Ramiro and Mireya’s desire to give New York a genuine taste of Mexico. Their dedication has been a guiding light for their son, Luis, who ventured to open La cevicheria by de Mole at 42-20 30th Ave. in Astoria during the challenging times of the COVID-19 pandemic. His decision to diversify the menu with a seafood focus was driven by a desire to introduce New Yorkers to the broad spectrum of traditional Mexican cooking, featuring a variety of fish, shellfish and ceviche—a dish showcasing fish marinated in citrus and spices.

The relationship between father and son in these culinary ventures reflects a deep bond and a shared commitment to cultural preservation. “Opening a new restaurant wasn’t just about business; it was about crafting a legacy, intertwining our family’s story with the flavors of our heritage,” Luis reflects. This Father’s Day, their story is especially resonant, highlighting not only their individual contributions, but also their collective effort to maintain the authenticity of Mexican cuisine.

While their menus differ, both locations celebrate mole—a rich sauce embodying the complexity of Mexican cooking with ingredients like fruits, nuts, chili peppers and spices. Specialties, such as slow-cooked chicken legs with mole sauce and chicken enchiladas with mole poblano, from the Puebla region of Mexico are staples at both sites.

Despite the initial challenges of rising produce costs and the global pandemic, La cevicheria has carved out its niche in the Astoria community, increasingly beloved by locals. “The community’s reception has been warm and encouraging. It’s a testament to the unique flavors we bring to the table, distinct from other Mexican offerings in the area,” Luis said, optimistic about the growing customer base as summer approaches.

As culinary traditions evolve, even within Mexico, Luis and his father, Ramiro, stand firm in their mission to preserve the authentic practices that are slowly fading. “Our restaurant is more than a business; it’s a heritage site of sorts, a place where New Yorkers can experience true Mexican culture through our food,” Luis concludes, hopeful for the future.

As Father’s Day nears, the story of de Mole and La cevicheria by de Mole reminds us of the powerful influence fathers can have, not just within their families but also within their communities, preserving and passing on the invaluable heritage of authentic cuisine and culture.

deMole | 45-02 48th Ave. Sunnyside 

La cevicheria | 42-20 30th Ave.Astoria

 

*This story first published in the June issue of BORO Magazine.

email the author: news@queenspost.com
No comments yet

Leave a Comment
Reply to this Comment

All comments are subject to moderation before being posted.


The reCAPTCHA verification period has expired. Please reload the page.

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.

Recent News

Fall fun in western Queens: Your guide to the best seasonal events

Aug. 29, 2025 By Jessica Militello

With beach days and summer BBQs behind us, the start of September rings in the start of magnificent Fall foliage, Halloween and more fun activities that come with the start of Autumn, including a list of Fall events in the area. From apple picking to seasonal ciders and more, there is tons to explore in the community. From Mystic Markets to scary movie meet-ups and more, here is a list of Fall events you do not want to miss.

A hidden gem in Sunnyside: Bistro Punta Sal blends Peruvian and Italian flavors

Aug. 29, 2025 By Jessica Militello

On a quiet street in Sunnyside, Bistro Punta Sal has its French doors wide open, letting the late August breeze emanate throughout the space, which is ornate with flowers, paintings and an array of tables and chairs for intimate dinners with friends or a romantic date night. The cozy restaurant, located at 45-51 46th St., is a hidden gem in the neighborhood that is just waiting to be discovered, as the sights and aromas of the restaurant invite guests in. 

Off-duty paramedic spots South Richmond Hill two-alarm house fire that injures nine firefighters, two civilians on Friday morning: FDNY

Nine firefighters were injured, two of them seriously, and two civilians sustained minor injuries during a two-alarm house fire in South Richmond Hill on Friday morning, but it could have been worse if not for the actions of an off-duty veteran EMT.

Paramedic Craig Biscuiti was driving to work when he noticed a column of thick black smoke and heavy flames coming from the first floor of a two-story home at 95-36 111th St. just before 7:10 a.m.

Astoria doctor sentenced to more than two decades in prison for rape and sexual abuse: DA

An Astoria doctor was sentenced to 24 years in prison on Thursday in Queens Supreme Court for raping unconscious acquaintances and sexually abusing hospital patients.

Dr. Zhi Alan Cheng, 35, of Broadway, pleaded guilty on June 30 to four counts of rape in the first degree and three counts of sexual abuse in the first degree in satisfaction of the consolidated indictments against him. He additionally entered an Alford plea to one count of sexual abuse. The defendant — a former gastroenterologist at New York-Presbyterian Queens Hospital — recorded the abuse of his unconscious victims with his cell phone in both his Astoria apartment and at the hospital.